Bathrooms in campgrounds are like a box of chocolates. You just never know what you’re going to get. This is true at home and even truer in Mexico. A few days ago, though, I knew we had hit the jackpot. After checking into the park in La Paz, Dave went to check out the facilities and returned grinning ear to ear. “It’s really clean! And there’s a shower! And the shower has a shower head! Also, there’s two taps – hot and cold! And they both have water pressure.” I can’t actually recall the last time we had encountered all of these things present in the same bathroom but it has been a while and I realize we are starting to really appreciate the little things.

Another little thing (and in keeping with the bathroom theme) is that I am proud to say that I am now remembering (at least 95% of the time) not to flush my used toilet paper but instead throw it into the basket provided. It’s not that I was trying to wreak havoc on Mexican plumbing systems everywhere but old habits die hard. Anyway, I think I have adjusted. Enough said.

Ok- one more bathroom story before I move on and it is also a point of pride. I conquered one of my fears this week and bravely faced down a cockroach in the bathroom. I had stripped down to take a shower in what was actually one of the nicer facilities we have seen (I would give it an 8 out of 10 on the campground bathroom scale) when I noticed a cockroach in the drain. It was tragic. I did not want to abandon one of the best bathrooms we’d seen yet but there was also no way I could shower with him in there. As I pondered my options, he crawled out of the drain and stared me down from his corner. It’s like he was taunting me. I put on my panties and sandals (because apparently panties are like armour and I couldn’t go into battle naked). I proceeded to stomp on him with my ninja-like swiftness and deposited him in the waste bin. I celebrated with a leisurely shower, smug in my victory. Kristel 1 – Cockroaches 0

Speaking of creepy critters, though, the flies have struck back since my last assault. A few days ago, a few of them were circling me, trying to land on my dinner plate. While I was swatting the air, trying to protect my plate, one must have landed in my juice. Before I realized, I had drank from my cup, and felt it. I sputtered and coughed but it was already down the hatch. I was horrified and disgusted. I turned to Dave for support but I should have known better. As I explained what had happened, he smiled and, without missing a beat, broke into song “I don’t know why, she swallowed the fly….perhaps she’ll die”. I was beyond annoyed at this initial reaction but, as he kept singing, I started laughing and then we both got a serious case of the giggles and couldn’t stop laughing for quite some time after that.

Before we left on this trip, I remember wondering how the two of us would get along during this adventure – whether we would be able to handle spending day after day together 24/7 with only each other for companionship. It turns out we’re doing just fine, though. The funny thing about having your partner as your primary source of entertainment and companionship is that it’s pretty much impossible to stay mad for any length of time. I think I have come to appreciate Dave’s quirky sense of humour (and his other quirks) even more than before.

As for our travels, we continue to find loads of sunshine, beautiful beaches and friendly faces. Since leaving our little oasis in San Ignacio we traveled east to Bahia Concepcion where we found what will remain in my mind as the most ideal camping spot for perhaps the rest of my life. Unbelievable isolated pristine beach on a calm bay that was literally teeming with fish.

Someplace along the way, after several road construction detours, which any Canadian safety officer would have nightmares about, we came to a long construction delay. An enterprising local had set up a snack and drink stand and lots of people were getting out of their cars. There was some excitement as several people were pointing at something in the sea below. Our curiosity got the best of us and we had to get out and look. We were treated to a whale shark gliding by in the beautiful blue water. Impossible to get a decent picture of but exciting all the same.

From here we headed south through Cuidad de Constitucion and to La Paz (location of the aforementioned legendary bathroom) before finding another slice of beauty in Todos Santos. It’s a great little town full of wonderful shops, galleries and restaurants and not a bad beach with a bit of a walk. Dave and I were especially excited to find a used book store with English books so we could restock. We also picked up a child’s book in Spanish and English to help with our reading skills.

We also decided to refill our water tank in town. When our tank is full, we can last about 5 days but after that, we need to look for a water station for a refill. This has become our routine since we accidentally filled our tank with brackish water at one of our first campgrounds in Mexico. Along with hardware stores, though, the water outlets selling “agua purificada” are completely off the tourist track and it always proves to be an opportunity to test out our Spanglish (along with Dave’s wicked pantomiming skills). At the station in Todos Santos, though, we ran into a bit of a hitch. We managed to communicate the need to fill the tank but the three gentlemen at the station (Grandfather, father and son we presume) have a problem that is discussed extensively in Spanish and the only word we are really picking up is no. We finally figure that they don’t have a hose long enough. We try our hose but it won’t reach. They come out with a funnel but because our inlet is in a vertical wall it won’t work. Grandpa spies our small hose and in a few gestures suggests we siphon. Grandson holds the 20 L water jug on his shoulder and we start the siphon but at the rate it flows in the small hose we will all be dead trying to hold the jug up long before we empty the 3 jugs required to fill our tank. Father comes out with another slightly larger hose and then it strikes Dave. He jumps on the hood of the truck and motions for the jug. With superhuman effort (Dave’s words) he sets the jug on top of the camper and puts the larger hose in. Grampa starts the siphon and all we hear is cheers of “Radipo, rapido!”. Sweet success and smiles all around. Everyone has a turn starting the siphon and soaking themselves before we are done. The operation took about 30 minutes; cost us 30 pesos; and made us 3 new amigos.

After this experience our oil change was a breeze.

We made a quick stop in Cabo San Lucas and then stocked up on groceries before heading to the East Cape. This is a little off the main highway so the 60 km on washboard roads took us a while, but we did have a chance to check out some of the local livestock and give our cupboard repair another could test before coming to another beach that could almost (but not quite) rival our spot at Bahia Concepcion.